Where is Salamis?
Salamis is located around 9 miles to the North of Famagusta, also known as Gazimağusa or Ammochostos. I know that there are a lot of articles claiming that Famagusta is a ghost town and doesn’t exist any more. This is wrong or, at least, not totally true. There is a quarter of the city to the south of Famagusta which is known as Varosha (Greek) or Maraş (Turkish). This is were all the posh hotels used to be which attracted the jet-set of the 1960’s and early 1970’s. Back then it was the place to be seen and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were regulars.
Then came the war and Varosha became no-man’s-land. A sad reminder of its glorious past, rotting away in the green belt that divides the two parts of the island. Its 39.000 inhabitants have fled long since, many didn’t even take the time to take the clothes of the washing line or clear the table - whether this was down to panic or the deep belief in a speedy return - we will not know.
The rest of the city, including it’s ancient core sheltered behind massive medieval city walls, is still very much alive, accessible and open to the world.
Salamis is located just of the main road that leads up north towards the Karpaz Peninsula, at the height of the entrance to the village Yeni Boğaziçi aka Ayios Seryios.
The history of Salamis
Cyprus is a much fought over island, not only in recent history, and has changed owners many time. Its history is fascinating but confusing. Its towns and villages have many names, at least one in Greek and Turkish, places like Bellapais still bear witness to the French rule of the Lusignans, while the Venetians are responsible for the wealth of Famagusta which has left us with an abundance of old churches, most of them now heavily ruined.
Historians date the beginnings of Salamis back to the Late Bronze Age, somewhere around 1100 BC. The city has an ancient harbour which played a vital role in being part of a trade route in between ancient Greece and the near East. Over the coming centuries it will see Phoenician, Assyrian, and Persian rulers. In 410 BC Salamis won its independence from the Persian Empire, a short lived victory that saw the Persians back in office after just more than 30 years. During the Roman Empire Salamis was replaced as capital of the island and its importance began to falter. Severe earthquakes during the first 4 centuries AD finally caused the destruction of the town as its harbour silted up. and made the important trade impossible. By the 7th century Salamis was abandoned - another Cypriot ghost town.
Many of the stones from houses in Salamis were used to built up neighbouring Famagusta, which grew in importance and size in the same rate as Salmis went downhill.
What you can see in Salamis
The excavations in Salamis started in the 1950’s and came to an abrupt halt when the war started in 1974 - they have never been taken up since and most of this enormous site is still under the ground. Admittedly, this must have sound little encouraging now but you mustn’t worry, if there was nothing to see I would not be writing about it.
Archaeologists managed to unearth a wealth of treasures in the 22 years of excavations before the confrontations of 1974, most of what was found dates to its younger history, the Roman times.
At what must have been the North side of the ancient metropolis extensive excavations that have been beautifully restored can be seen. These include the aforementioned gymnasium, a theatre which still hosts the odd open air-concert - a spectacle I would have loved to visit during the years I lived in Cyprus but never had the chance to, baths and latrines (toilets) for more than 40 people, a cistern, the walls of the silted harbour, mosaics, the forum, countless headless statues, …
The necropolis of Salamis alone covered a very sizable 7 km², which might give you an idea just how vast this city must have been.
The ruins are in a fantastic condition and the only thing you will regret is that the international embargo has made further excavations impossible since the cease-fire. Imagine what is still lying under that sand!
While you are in the area of Salamis …
Just a few minutes’ drive from Salamis you can visit the Monastery of St Barnabas where the legend sees the grave of Cyprus’ most holy man. The tomb of St Barnabas is in a small chapel in front of the monastery which is home to small collection with findings from Salamis. In comfortably air-conditioned rooms you can see china, glassware, jewelry, coins and other items of daily use that have been found at Salamis. The monastery itself is a very pleasant place with a beautifully courtyard that I can’t resist, the onsite snack bar with its refreshing drinks and excellent Turkish coffee comes handy for a break. The monasteries’ small Icon museum displays is well worth to spend a few more minutes’ of your time here.
In walking distance to the monastery you can visit the Royal tombs which have sheltered the bones of the dead of the house of Salamis, vast amounts of pottery, a chariot, animal bones and other items which proof their importance and wealth.
Cyprus can get extremely hot and if you feel like cooling down a bit after a visit - there is a great serviced beach right next to the entrance. The beach bar belongs to the restaurant and against a small fee you can rent sun loungers and umbrellas, they serve drinks and the restaurant has a terrace with a lovely view and fantastic food at very reasonable prices.
How to get to Salamis
There are no direct flights to Cyprus, unless you live in Turkey. Flights from London Stansted or Gatwick will pass from either Istanbul, Alanya or Antalia. In most cases you will have a wait of about 40 minutes until your flight to Ercan airport (Lefkosa,Nicosia) continues. The flight from London to Turkey takes around 4 1/2 hours, from Istanbul to Northern Cyprus you will need to calculate another 1 hour.Transfer time from the airport to a hotel in the Salamis area is around 45 mins.
It is possible now to travel directly to the Southern part, Larnaca airport is closest. Most hotels offer shuttle service to Larnaca airport or can arrange a taxi pick-up against a fee.
If you are staying either in the Girne (Kyrenia) area or the South, you can either take part in a bus trip which is offered by most travel operators, or rent a car.
Travel is on the left, main roads are in good condition.
Places to stay near Salamis
Famagusta is a harbour town and the part that had the beaches is now the closed down ghost-town. The only hotel in town that offers a beach, albeit a small one, is the otherwise excellent Palm Beach Hotel. While rooms and services are very recommendable it needs to be said that the beach borders to the fence that cuts through the city and overlooks the decaying luxury hotels of the abandoned quarter. This might not be to everybodies’ taste although it is also the best spot if you want to get a good glimpse at the former glory.
A bit to the north of Salamis you can find the Salamis Bay Conti hotel which is a very popular choice with many tourists. They boast a (local) 5-star rating, offer all-inclusive deals in their main hotel and self-catering in their bungalow, several bars and pools, a spa, boutique and mini-zoo for children.
A bit less posh but cheaper and family-run are the bungalows at neighbouring Koca Reis where you can enjoy miles of sandy beach. If you do not feel like cooking you can make use of their restaurant and snack bar, breakfast is served at the beach bar directly next to the sea.
Of course there are many other options, these are just a few that are close to the ruins and offer direct beach access.
I’ve met my now husband during my first visit to Salamis and have lived for 4 years in the neighbourhood of the magnificent place. If you have any questions, please feel free to comment or sent me a message.
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